About Srinagar
The capital of Jammu and Kashmir and the largest city in the
state, Srinagar (1,730m) is famous for its canals, houseboats
and Mughal gardens. The city itself is quite unlike most other
large Indian cities for here you are much more in Central Asia
than on the sub continent. It's a city full of intriguing
alleyways and curious buildings. A place where it's very easy to
spend a few hours simply wandering - particularly along the old
city streets near the Jhelum river.
An Ancient Learning Centre Arts & Culture 
The city has long been a centre of the arts and learning - it
has had a university or for hundreds of years and is a centre of
Sanskrit study. 'Sri' means beauty or wealth of knowledge and 'Nagar'
means city. The city was originally founded by the great
Buddhist emperor Ashoka - his old city is marked by the present
village of Pandrethan. The present city was founded by
Pravarasena II (79-139 AD) who named it "Praparapura" and built
it practically contiguous with the old capital, which was called
"Srinagari".
Praparapura is recorded in Chinese annals by Hiuan Tsang who
visited the city in about 630 AD and described it as extending
about 4-km from north to south and about 2-km from east to west
along the right bank of the Jhelum. King Ananta was the first to
transfer his royal residence to the left bank of the river.
A Legend
Legend has it that when Pravarasena decided to build himself a
new capital, to choose the location he started walking at
midnight and was confronted by a demon on the other side of the
Mahasarit River. The demon spread his bent leg across the stream
and dared the king to cross over it to the other side. The king
cut off the leg with one stroke of his sword and calmly crossed.
The demon was delighted with the king's boldness and told him to
build the city where he would find the beginnings of a plan laid
out for him. The next morning the king found the boundary lines
drawn at the foot of Hari Parbat and built his city there. To
this day the waters of the Dal Lake are separated from the
Tsont-i-Kul by a Sathu or Bund that is shaped like a bent leg.
Houseboats
If one is longing for the delights of a houseboat holiday, then
check out lakes of Srinagar to try one. Srinagar is a unique
city because of its lakes - the Dal, Nagin and Anchar. The River
Jhelum also flows through a part of the city.
Most houseboats on the Nagin and the Jhelum are situated on the
banks of the lake, and can be accessed directly from land
without the help of a Shikara. While all those on the Dal
require a Shikara to get to and from them. Most houseboats on
the Dal are situated in long straggling rows; some face the
boulevard, Srinagar's exciting address, while others are
situated singly or in groups of two and three.
City Of Lakes
Srinagar's lakes are the reason why the city receives so many
tourists. Not just expanse of water, the lakes are filled with
houseboats, villages, narrow water canals, lotus and vegetable
gardens and houses and shops.
Life on the lakes, as witnessed from the confines of a Shikara,
is unique. It is possible to book a Shikara for the whole day
and sightsee Nishat Garden, Nasim Bagh, Hazratbal Mosque, Pathar
Masjid and Shah Hamdan's Shrine, having a picnic lunch in the
boat.
While Nagin is quieter, the Dal is full of local colour, with
tourists being rowed in Shikara to shops selling every
conceivable handicraft - all within the lake.
Let's Have A Ride Of The Lake!
A Shikara ride is one of the most soothing, relaxing aspects of
a holiday in Kashmir. It can be an hour-long ride to see the
sights of the Dal; a shopping by Shikara expedition to visit
handicraft shops within the periphery of the lake; or a whole
day trip to visit important city landmarks.
Prime Attractions of Srinagar 
Hari Parbat Fort
The 18th century fort tops the Sharika Hill, which is clearly
visible, rising to the west of Dal Lake. The fort was
constructed by Atta Mohammed Khan from 1776 but the surrounding
wall is much older, it was built between 1592 and 1598 during
the rule of Akbar.
Aru
The chirrup of birds, the gentle swish of the breeze, the
sapphire coloured sky, and all at 2408m above sea level - this
is Aru. Far far away from the routine urban life, Aru is a
meadow bordered on one side by a ravine of the Lidder River. A
little stream also flows past in the green-gold grass.
Avantipur
Situated at the foot of one of the spurs of the mountain
Wastarwan, this temple site overlooks the Jhelum, which wends
its tortuous way gently by the side of the Jammu-Srinagar
highway.
 Dal
Lake
Dal Lake is, initially, one of the most confusing parts of
Srinagar for it's not really one lake at all, but three. Further
more much of it is hardly what one would expect a lake to be
like - it's a maze of intricate waterways and channels, floating
islands of vegetation, houseboats that look so firmly moored
they could almost be islands and hotels on islands which look
like they could simply float away.
Hazratbal Mosque
The most important Muslim shrine of Kashmir, that commands the
reverence of the people beyond measure, is undoubtedly the
Hazratbal Shrine, which is situated on the left bank of the
famous Dal Lake in Srinagar. This unmatched reverence is
anchored in the love and respect for the Prophet.
Khir Bhawani Temple
Situated at Tullamula in the Srinagar district, it is an
important Hindu Shrine. The temple is associated with the Hindu
Goddess, Ragnya Devi. An Annual festival is held here on Jeshth
Ashtami (May-June) when Hindus visit the place in large numbers
to offer prayers to seek the blessings of the deity.
Kokernag Springs
The great Mughal historian, Abul Fazi, has chronicled for
posterity the benefits of the sweet water spring of Kokernag.
This beneficent gift of nature is still regarded as having
extraordinary healing powers .
 Mughal
Gardens
Set some distance back from the lake, but reached by a small
canal, the Shalimar were built by Emperor Jehangir for his wife
Nur Jahan, 'light of the world' in 1616. The Nishat Bagh is
another lovely garden with its 12 terraces representing the 12
signs of the zodiac, which descend gradually and seem to almost
merge into the lake. Smallest of the Srinagar Mughal gardens,
measuring just 108 metres by 38 metres, the Chasma Shahi, or
'Royal Spring', are well up the hillside, above the Nehru
Memorial Park.
Nagin Lake
Known as the 'Jewel In The Ring', Nagin is generally held to be
the most beautiful of the Dal lakes. Its name comes from the
many trees, which encircle the small, deep blue lake. Nagin is
only separated from the Larer Dal lakes by a narrow causeway and
it also has a number of houseboats moored around its perimeter.
Pandrethan
Pandrethan 5-km to the southeast of Srinagar, is now within the
Municipal limits of Srinagar itself. The modern name is derived
from the ancient appellation Puranadhishthana, which literally
means the 'old capital'. Thus, Pandrethan represents the site of
the ancient capital, Srinagari, believed to have been founded by
the great Maurya emperor Ashoka (Circa 276-36 BC).
Shankaracharya Hill
Rising up behind the boulevard, beside Dal Lake, the hill was
once known as Takht-i-Sulaiman, the throne of Solomon. The
philosopher Shankaracharya stayed at this place when he visited
Kashmir ten centuries ago to revive "Sanatan Dharma".
Tomb of Zain Ul Abidin
One of the east banks of the Jhelum River, between the Zaina
Kadal and the Ali Kadal, is the slightly decrepit tomb of King
Zain-ul-Abidin, the highly regarded son of Sultan Sikander, who
built the Jami Masjid.
Verinag Springs
One of the largest springs in India, Verinag, which lies in the
Kothar district, is 78-km southeast of Srinagar via Anantnag,
and is easily accessible through a bypass from the
Jammu-Srinagar highway.
Burzahom
In the opposite direction from the Shalimar gardens about 5-km
to the northwest, are the even older excavations of Burzahom.
The archaeological dig here has provided evidence of people
living in the vale up to 5,000 years ago. The oldest excavations
have revealed implements, pots, animal skeletons, arrowheads and
tools from the Neolithic age. Much of the material taken from
this site is now in the museum in Srinagar.
Islands
There are three main islands in the lake, each poplar excursion
points. Silver Island is at the northern end of Dal Lake and is
also known as "Char Chinar" after the four-chinar trees, which
grow on it. There's a small snack bar on the island as there is
also on Gold Island at the south end of the lake. It is also
known as "Char Chinar" for it too has four Chinar trees. The
third island is Nehru Park, at the end of the main stretch of
the boulevard and only a short distance from the shore. It too
has a restaurant although it's a very run down, miserable
affair. The children's playground here has also seen better
days. Often in summer there are evening shows, dances and
festivals held at Nehru Park. North of Nehru Island a long
causeway leads out into the lake from the boulevard just off its
end is "Kotar Khana", the 'house of pigeons', which was once a
royal summer house.
Jami Masjid
one of the most important mosque is an impressive wooden
structure, notable for the more than 300 soaring pillars
supporting the roof; each made of a single deodar tree trunk.
The main gate is to the south and the outer cloisters surround a
spacious, green and peaceful inner courtyard.
Khanqah-e-Moulla
The shrine of Shah-e-Hamdan or Khanqah-e Moulla is one of the
oldest Muslim shrines in Kashmir situated on the banks of river
Jehlum in the old city. The shrine was originally constructed by
Sultan Sikander (1389-1413 AD) in the memory of Muslim preacher
Mir Syed Ali Hamdani who had visited Kashmir and stayed there
for meditation and preaching.
Pather Masjid
Almost directly opposite the Shah Hamdan mosque, on the other
bank of the Jhelum, the Pather Masjid is a fine stone mosque
built by Nur Jahan in 1623. It is not, however, in everyday use
today and is consequently rather run down. Reach it by crossing
Zaina Kadal, the fourth bridge.
Shadaharwan
5-km beyond the Shalimar gardens, this place is said to have
been the site of a monastery in which the fourth international
council of Buddhism was held in the year 300 AD. At this time
Kashmir was part of the Kushan Empire under the rule of the
Buddhist emperor Kanishka. The monastery is said to have
contained a Stupa, some chapels and other buildings. Excavations
in the area recently have brought to light some illustrated
tiles on the hillside south of the village of Harwan. One can
see examples of the tiles, with their central Asian influence in
the peoples dress and ornaments, in the museum in Srinagar.
Nearby is the Harwan Lake, at the foot of the 4,267metre Mahadev
peak, a popular climb for hikers during the summer. The lake is
actually the reservoir, which provides the water supply for
Srinagar and it is supplied by the run off from Marsar Lake.
There is also a garden and trout hatchery at the site.
Mansabal Lake
Situated in the Jhelum valley on the route to the Wular Lake via
Safapur, the lake can be reached from Srinagar via Shadipur or
via Nasim and Gandarbal. The secluded, crystal clear sheet of
green water was named after the sacred lake of Mansarowar that
skirts the equally sacred Mt. Kailash.
Nasim Bagh
Only a short distance beyond the Hazratbal mosque, the Nasim
gardens, the 'garden of tepid airs' or 'garden of the morning
breeze', were built by the Mughal emperor Akbar after his
conquest of Kashmir in 1586. He had 1,200 Chinar trees planted
in the garden, which is the oldest of Kashmir's Mughal gardens.
Overa-Aru Biosphere Reserves
The area is located at a distance of 76-kms from Srinagar to its
southeast. It is famous for retaining several rare and
endangered species
Pari Mahal
The old Sufi college of Pari Mahal, the 'palace of the fairies',
is only a short distance above the Chasma Shahi gardens. One can
easily walk from the gardens up to the Pari Mahal then follow a
footpath directly down the hill to the road that runs by the
Oberoi Palace Hotel. The Pari Mahal consists of a series of
arched terraces. Recently it has been turned into a very
pleasant and well-kept garden with fine views over Dal Lake.
It's attractively sited on a spur of the Zabarwan Mountains. The
gardens are beautifully kept even today and a Son Et Lumiere
show is put on here every evening during the May to October
tourist season.
Shah Hamdan Mosque
Shah Hamdan Mosque is one of the oldest mosques in Srinagar. The
wooden mosque stands right beside the Jhelum and is noted for
the Papier Mache work on its walls and ceilings. No nails or
screws were used in the construction of this all-wooden mosque.
Originally built in 1395 it has been destroyed by fire in 1479
and again in 1731.
Shikaras
The best-known Kashmiri transport is, of course, the Shikara.
These are the graceful, long boats, which crowd the Srinagar
lakes. They're used for getting back and forth from the
houseboats or for longer tours. Officially there is a standard
fare for every trip around the lake and these are prominently
posted at the main landings.
Try paddling a Shikara yourself sometime - it's nowhere near as
easy as it looks. You'll spend lots of time going round in
circles trying to master that single, heart shaped paddle. Even
if you do start to travel in a straight line you'll find it
requires a good amount of stamina to maintain the pace. If your
houseboat hasn't got one to spare some children passing by will
find you a boat although you may have to pay them. One can rent
rowboats on Nagin Lake.
Tomb Of Zain-ul-Abidin
One of the east banks of the Jhelum River, between the Zaina
Kadal and the Ali Kadal, is the slightly decrepit tomb of King
Zain-ul-Abidin, the highly regarded son of Sultan Sikander, who
built the Jami Masjid.
Shopping
There is a whole string of Government Handicraft Emporiums
scattered around Srinagar but the main one is housed in the fine
Old British Residency buildings by the Bund. Here one will find
a representative selection of reasonably good quality items at
reasonable prices. Even if one doesn't buy anything, and take
advantage of the government's quality guarantee, it's a good
idea to familiarise oneself with what's available here.
Shawls
Kashmiri shawls are noted for the extreme fineness of the cream
coloured goats wool known as Pashmina and for the intricate
embroidery work.
How To Get There - Srinagar
By Air
Various airlines fly to Srinagar from New Delhi, Chandigarh,
Amritsar, Jammu and there are flights operating from Srinagar to
Leh and back. Flights are more frequent during the summer
Tourist Season; at that time there will probably be several
flights a day between Delhi and Srinagar. Some services are
direct, while others operate via Chandigarh, Amritsar or Jammu.
Flight time duration from Delhi on the direct flights is about
an hour and ten minutes.
By Road
Srinagar is connected by an all weather road to Jammu, which in
turn is connected to many parts of North India. One can catch
buses from Delhi but people making the trip by road should take
up the route via Chandigarh, Amritsar or from the Himachal
Pradesh hill stations.
Buses leave Jammu early in the morning for the 10 to 12 hour
trip to Srinagar in the Kashmir valley. Although there are many
buses, still one should book a seat as soon as one arrives in
Jammu. The same applies from Srinagar as the day before
departure all seats may be sold out. Buses also go from here to
Leh and Kargil.
The buses all arrive and depart in Srinagar from the Tourist
Reception Centre bus compound. From here's it's about a 10 to 15
minute walk to Dal Lake and the houseboat ghats. If one wants to
go straight to the houseboat area or to one of the upmarket
hotels by the lake ask for the boulevard. Bus bookings are made
at the tourist reception centre. |
